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    Michelle Xie
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    Post count: 1

    Hi Jake,

    I would really appreciate your input on where I should be for my first set of norms.
    Background:
    My last set of glasses (2019), and I was almost certainly another -0.25 sph and cyl up from these in reality as my vision has not stabilized:
    R -5.25 / -1.75 axis 05 plus some add power and prism
    L -5.5 / -1.25 axis 170 plus some add power and prism

    What I have been wearing as first near work glasses then reduced strength distance glasses after finding EndMyopia in early October
    (2014 glasses):
    R -4.75 / -1.25 axis 03 no add power no prism
    L -5 / -1.0 axis 175 no add power no prism
    I was motivated to get myself out of some of the added prescription complexity which I had some suspicion that I did not actually need, particular the H and V prism that were put on my 2017 and 2019 glasses. These started as being 4-5ft distance to blur, which became 6-7ft (cilliary spasm release), which now for the left eye is getting close to being almost 10 ft distance to blur!

    Diffs – my goal is to do computer work between around 2.5 ft. I can bring my setup as close as 2 ft and extend to about 3ft/1 meter.

    First diffs (late October)
    R -4 / -1 axis 05
    L -4.25 / -0.75 axis 175
    I did not really have an issue with that amount of astigmatism reduction (general blur seemed to hit before directional blur), and I tried to keep the same sph and cyl gaps as my 2014 pair which I started to wear as my distance glasses once these came in.

    Second diffs (1 week ago)
    R -3.75 / -0.75 axis 05
    L 4.0 / 0.5 axis 175
    Distance to blur: Both: 81cm R: 69cm L: 74cm
    I definitely noticed this next notch down in the cyl correction and probably need to put some back on the right eye (based on various data: cms, Snellen, going outside and focusing license plates and seeing what kind and how much of blur I’m getting, I’m inclined to say at this point I almost certainly do just have a 0.5 dioper cylinder gap between my eyes.

    Pseudo norms #1 which came in a week ago:
    R -5 / -1.25 axis 03 no add power no prism
    L -5.25 / -1.0 axis 175 no add power no prism
    I ordered these as another option for a distance correction so that
    1. I was not just using an old pair of glasses
    2. I was getting such a gap in visual acuity between L and R eye on my 2014 glasses that I was concerned what my old optometrist practice said about that script wasn’t quite right
    3. At the time I ordered them, the 2014 pair was still a little sketchy for driving at night, but that has changed quite a bit again in the last 1-2 weeks
    By a couple of days ago, I had gotten to reading license plates with decent clarity at 30-40ft / 10-13m and active focusing them at 50-70ft/15-22m, on a cloudy day

    20ft/6m Snellen numbers
    Pseudo norms:
    R: 20/15 to 20/25 (lower number with some active focus)
    L: 20/15 to 20/20 (lower number with some active focus)
    2014 glasses
    R: 20/25 to 20/40 (lower number with some active focus)
    L: 20/20 to 20/25 (lower number with some active focus)

    Centimeters (indoor lighting, no glasses)
    Both: 20-21 cm
    R (directional blur) 16.5-17 cm
    R (general blur) 20 cm
    L (directional blur) 17.5-18 cm
    L (general blur) 19-20 cm
    So the most recent cms give something in the range of
    R: -5 / -1
    L: -5 or -5.25 / -0.5

    However, how I’m perceiving directional blur in the right eye in my distance lenses is suggestive that -1.25 cyl is not quite enough for it if I want to be close to fully corrected in cylinder as a starting point. With the right eye, I get noticeable stacking/overlays/ghosting (vertical blur) that arises at my edge of blur moreso than a generalized blur).

    For norms, I am thinking I’ll probably be okay in something that gives a very wobbly 20/30 or moderate clarity 20/40, because I basically lived that way or worse for 5 weeks using my 2014 glasses, until they got clearer more recently. I am not totally sure on what the impact adding or removing -0.25 sph has on a 20 ft Snellen, though.

    Additionally, I have an optometrist appointment on Monday at a new place, and it’ll be my first appointment in 3.5 years. I would like to see if they would be willing to work with me to just utilize the test lenses and eye chart to get me to that subjective wobbly 20/30, get a similar clarity outcome in each eye, as my right eye has been noticeably under-corrected compared to my left for what I have been wearing in the last 5-6 weeks, help confirm my cyl axes, sph and cyl diopters and diopter gaps (in -5 plus astigmatism land where every 0.5cm to 1cm is about a quarter diopter difference, I’m not as confident I’m gauging the directional to general blur gap very precisely for my cylinder numbers), and there is the added benefit of if what they put on that paper is more or less what is wanted by the EM method for first normalized, I can take that to a local lens shop and utilize some of my vision care stipend for frames and lens (I have confirmed at each optics shop that they will not cut anything except for what is on that paper…).

    Eagerly awaiting your input and thanks so much for this website and program!
    Michelle

    I've worn glasses/contacts since early grade school, over 20 years in total, and I'm looking forward to improving my vision and incrementally getting a clearer picture of the world.

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    • Jake S.
      Keymaster
      Post count: 8756

      That is very detailed analysis and lots of insights, Michelle. Great work!

      With cylinder, you can usually get away with less in close-up than distance. Successfully reducing from the first (already lower cylinder) in differentials is usually indication that some cylinder reduction in normalized is also possible. It is all very much a personal experiment to be sure, and you want minimal directional blur. More of it present in less ideal lighting conditions!

      20/30 seems ok for normalized, though careful about having that being because of directional blur. All you really want is a little bit of challenge at a distance you use a fair bit, for active focus.

      If you have specific diopter thoughts based on this, feel free to share for review.

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